คำอธิบาย "C1 Input Decoupling DC"
Something about the input caps... Several builders have played around with the input caps / input configuration. I have received some feedback about this, and now i want to share an overview from the informations.
The input caps that were used are WIMA MKP10, WIMA MKP4, Orange drops, Electrolytic Panasonics, Audyn caps, Mundorf caps, Bipolar Electrolytic caps and Roederstein / ERO caps (blue MKP types).
The TDA sometimes sounds a bit sharp, depending on which type of music you prefer to listen. Here are some caps that seem to be very good for the TDA input section:
WIMA caps (or the Vishay MKP) MKP10 or MKP4 make the amp sounding a bit softer at higher frequency levels. All of the sound appears clear and detailed, but the heights are a bit smoother. The sharpness decreases a little bit by using this types.
Orange Drops (the 715 type) are a good descision if you like a "all over" smoother sound, without compromises on the sound quality. They will add some kind of "sweetness" to the amp. The Bass is kicking and the mids should be clear and rich detailed. The heights are much softer but still very clear.
Electrolytic caps or bipolar electrolytic caps are very different to each other - depending on the type you might wish to use. They are cheaper and easier to get and that's the way how they can(!) sound. Some have found, that the details and the sound quality can(!) be good within using e-caps. But more people don't like them in the input sections. Many people say, that electrolytic caps don't pass the details to the IC. "They steal parts of the sound". But high capacity caps can take away the heights - or let's say - they can act as high frequency filter. IMO - i also use them in coupling / decoupling sections, but not straight at the input or bypassed with smaller MKPs.
Audyn and Mundorf caps are the cuties that i prefer. I can say that they provide a superior quality at the input. They sound very detailed, rich and they (nearly) don't touch the frequency range.
The other side is that they can make the amp sound sharp, because of their quality. They pass everything to the amp, and the amp isn't too shy to amplify the higher frequencies to a snakes "sss"... OK - not so good, Al. (No - they are very good! Me, i like crystal heights). That's subjectiv and every one has other impressions.
The ole Roederstein / ERO caps are a real deal on nearly all amps (if you can get them somewhere). They are rich detailed and heavenly great over all the bandwith. I use a pair on my LM3886 GainClone and i can say that they are yummy Yes, they are - but are they worth the effort to get them? No, they are discontinued and only a few dealers should have some on stock - for heavenly high prices. Forget it, if you don't have them in your box! It's not worth the effort.
The best descision is to use WIMA MKP10 or Orange Drops 715, if you think, that you want a smoother and softer sound. You can also go to set up a little input signal conditioner. That may sound complicated, but it isn't. Just add one small 180Ohm - 240Ohm resistor, after the input cap (in series to the IC) and then, after this resistor, a small 68pF - 10nF capacitance (also WIMA / Vishay / Orange drop or Mica) to ground. This should slightly cut the HF capability to lower levels and this also should decrease the sharpness to a bit lower levels.
คำอธิบาย "C2 Inverting Input Decoupling DC"
I don't know which kind of input cap you've used. "C2" must have the value shown on the scheme and good quality (It's a frequency setting component). The input cap is one of the mainparts on this little amp. This cap must be able to pass all details from the incoming signal. A high(!) quality cap is recommended for the input section. (Not a "high end - high price" - simply a good one). It might be the case that you use an - hmm - "cheap" electrolytic type here. That wouldn't be a good idea! E-caps have the characteristic that they often don't pass higher frequencies correctly.
คำอธิบาย "หม้อแปลงแบบcentre tapped กับ หม้อแปลงแบบdual secondary"
Some words about transformers, rectifiers and an important "NULL"...
What transformer do i need to build the amp and what is "centre tapped" or "dual secondary"?? What is the "ground" and how do i build it?? At least - what the heck is "NULL" (or simply 0)?? OK - here it is.
At first:
To build the amp like on the project page, you will need a "dual secondary" transformer with 2 x 18 Volt AC. A dual secondary transformer has 2 seperated windings with 18Volt AC (alternating current) per each. Usually, such a transformer is labled with something like: 2 x 18VAC - 120VA or 18VAC//18VAC - 160VA. It is recommended to use this dual secondary transformer. As said: 2 x 18VAC - 160VA. This transformer is a very usual type and you can get it nearly everywhere. If you already call other transformers your own, you also could use them. It is not(!) especially needed to use the 18VAC. One 15VAC / 12VAC, found in your "scrapbox", will also do the job. But, the output power will be less with every volt that goes below 18VAC. I suggest to choose a transformer with at least 120VA. This VA rate can deliver 3,3 Amperes per rail @ 18VAC. VA? VA! VA: is the apparent power. Just divide the AC output voltage with the VA factor and the result is the current capability per rail / winding. = 18VAC / 120VA = 3,3 Amperes per rail (6,6 in total). Please don't go above the 18VAC suggestion with the transformer. The max. IC input is 25VDC. That is reached by using the 18VAC transformer. Every Volt above 18VAC will result in senseless voltage regulators and efforts, that are not worth the time and more grey hairs.
Centre tapped?!:
A "centre tapped" transformer has one (1) single winding that is tapped at the centre of this winding. This types are always labeled like "18 - 0 - 18 VAC" or "18VCT". Please read the transformers manual, or ask your dealer, if you are not sure with the transformer descriptions, or if you don't know if the offered type is a dual or CT. Transformers are always rated with AC (Alternating current) and never in DC (Direct current)!.
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